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Velvety Tree Ant — Liometopum occidentale

Liometopum occidentale · Ants

Velvety tree ants have a dark head, a reddish thorax and a black velvety abdomen. They nest in dead wood, stumps and cavities in living trees, and move into buildings much as carpenter ants do. They excavate less, smell sharply when crushed, and are routinely misidentified as carpenter ants.

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What to do about it 3
Routinely confused with 2
More ants 12

We treat this, and finding it usually warrants treating.

Velvety tree ant at a glance

Size About an eighth to a quarter of an inch, workers of several sizes in one column
Color Banded — brownish-black head, yellowish-red thorax, velvety black abdomen
How to tell it from a carpenter ant The red is a band across the body, not the legs; crushed workers smell sharp and sour
Nest Hollows in trees, stumps and logs; indoors in damp wall voids and foam insulation
Damage Mines wood less than a carpenter ant and leaves far less debris; tunnels in foam
Bites Aggressive at the nest — a painful bite with secretions sprayed on the intruder
When it is active Builds through spring, peaks in the warm months, runs at night, falls away from November

Signs you have them

  • Long, well-defined trails at night along fence rails, retaining walls, cable runs and branches touching the house
  • Tunneling in foam board at a rim joist or in the foam sleeve on a heat pump line set
  • A faint, persistent foul smell in one room that matches nothing stored there
  • Shallow, irregular workings in damp wood with little debris below them
  • Ants traveling up maples, birches, roses or fruit trees carrying a heavy aphid or scale load

The ant nobody names correctly

There is a good chance that if you have this insect, somebody has already told you that you have carpenter ants.

It is an easy mistake and an old one. This is a big, dark, wood-associated ant that turns up in the same places, moves into the same buildings, and produces the same alarm. Almost all the pest writing available to a homeowner in this region is about carpenter ants, so that is the answer that gets reached for. Ours is one of very few pages that treats the velvety tree ant as a species in its own right rather than a footnote, and the reason is that treatment aimed at the wrong ant costs a season.

The identification is not hard once somebody tells you what to look at. It just requires knowing that there is a second answer available.

The three-part body

Start with color, because this is the one feature that settles it across a room.

Utah State Extension’s description is a brownish-black head, a yellowish-red thorax, and a velvety black abdomen. Held on a fingertip in decent light, the insect reads as banded: dark at the front, distinctly rust or brick in the middle, dark again at the back. Nothing else likely to be walking along a Whatcom County deck rail has that arrangement.

Compare it against the ant it gets called. WSU’s carpenter ant sheet gives Camponotus modoc as black except for reddish legs. The red on a carpenter ant is in the legs, not in the body. The red on a velvety tree ant is a band across the middle of the body, and the legs are unremarkable. Once you have made that comparison once you will not make it again.

The rest of the structure is genuinely similar to a carpenter ant, which is why color has to do the work. Utah State records a single node on the waist and an evenly rounded thorax — the same smooth unbroken arc that separates carpenter ants from moisture ants. Both genera are polymorphic, so a colony produces workers of several sizes from the same queen and a column will contain small individuals and large ones together. The Pacific Northwest handbook puts the regional Liometopum species between about an eighth and a quarter of an inch, which overlaps the lower half of the carpenter ant range and is another reason size alone is not a check.

The velvet in the name

The abdomen is covered in very fine hairs, which Utah State names directly and which the Pacific Northwest handbook describes as a glistening abdomen composed of dense, fine hair.

A waterfront view of a bay framed by trees under a cloudy sky in the Pacific Northwest
The bay through the trees on a gray day. Saltwater edges the whole west side of the county, and the damp that comes with it is why so much of the work here ends up under the floor rather than in the kitchen.

In practice, on a live ant in sunlight, the rear section has a soft matte sheen rather than the hard gloss of many ants. It is subtle and it is not the check to lead with, but it is real, and under a phone camera at full zoom on a specimen held still it is obvious. It is also where the common name comes from, which helps people remember the species exists.

The smell

This is the fast confirmation and it takes ten seconds.

Crush several workers between finger and thumb and smell them. The Pacific Northwest handbook records that when crushed they give off a distinct odor similar to that of an odorous house ant. That means sharp, sour and organic — the coconut-and-blue-cheese register described on the odorous house ant page rather than the faint vinegar of formic acid you get from a crushed carpenter ant.

Use several ants rather than one. A single small worker does not release enough to register, and people who test with one conclude the smell is absent.

There is a larger-scale version of this that matters on structural jobs. Utah State notes that structural infestations result in a foul-smelling odor. Where a substantial colony is established in a wall void, the room can carry a faint persistent smell that nobody can place and that does not correspond to anything stored there. It is worth mentioning to us if you have noticed it, because it narrows the search to a wall rather than a building.

The four checks that separate it from a carpenter ant

Any one of these is usually enough. Together they are conclusive.

Color banding. Three tones along the body against a uniformly black ant with red legs.

Smell. Sharp and sour against faint or nothing.

The excavation. Carpenter ant workings are clean, smooth-sided galleries with a heap of coarse fibrous frass below the opening, often mixed with insect parts. Velvety tree ants mine wood less extensively, per the Pacific Northwest handbook, so the workings are shallower, less regular and produce far less debris for you to find.

The insulation. The Pacific Northwest handbook records that this species also infests foam insulation. Tunneling in rigid foam board, in the foam sleeve around a line set, or in sprayed material at a rim joist is not carpenter ant behavior and is a strong pointer toward this genus.

There is a fifth, weaker tell that is worth knowing about because people offer it and it does not work. Aggression is not diagnostic on its own. Both species will defend a nest, and a homeowner who got bitten opening a wall has learned nothing about which ant did it.

Where it lives outdoors

The species is named for trees and it means it.

A velvet-antlered buck standing in landscaping of low juniper and bark mulch, with conifers behind
A buck in velvet standing in the juniper and mulch of a planted bed. Deer are not something we treat, but they show how close the woods run to planted yards here, and cover that suits a deer suits everything smaller than one as well.

Utah State puts the nests in the hollows of trees, stumps and logs. That covers a great deal of what a Whatcom County property has going on around its edges: a big-leaf maple with a rot cavity where a limb came off, a cedar stump left from a clearing in the seventies, an alder that died standing along a creek margin, a cottonwood with a hollow butt, a fallen log at the back of a lot, a fence post with a soft heart, a stack of rounds that has been waiting three years to be split.

Two features of that habitat matter for buildings.

The first is that the nest sites are often in living trees. A tree can be entirely healthy in every visible respect and still carry a dead cavity that holds an established colony. That means removing dead wood from a property does not necessarily remove the source, and it means the tree you are least worried about can be the one supplying the building.

The second is the distance. The Pacific Northwest handbook records these ants nesting primarily outdoors and running trails extending several hundred meters to reach structures. That is a considerably wider radius than most people picture, and much wider than the thirty-foot world a pavement ant occupies. The tree that matters is not necessarily in your yard, on your lot line, or anywhere you would have thought to look.

They travel those distances the way ants do — along edges. Fence rails, retaining walls, irrigation lines, utility drops, the seam where a driveway meets grass, and above all any branch or vine touching the building. A limb resting on a roof is a bridge that skips every ground-level measure anyone has taken.

How it gets into a building, and where it goes

Utah State describes indoor nests as temporary sites built for foraging, sited in wall voids and areas with high moisture such as water leaks, and also under loose bark and rocks and in or under insulation.

The practical list on housing here comes out looking a lot like a carpenter ant list, which is exactly why the two get confused:

Wall voids on the wet side of a building, especially where a downspout has been discharging against the wall for several winters.

Rim joists and sill plates over a crawlspace with bare soil.

Around windows and doors at the bottom corners, where a replacement unit went into an old opening and the flashing behind it was never corrected.

Boxed soffits and roof edges, downstream of a gutter that overflows.

Insulation, which is the divergence from carpenter ants worth remembering. Foam board at a rim joist, foam sleeving on a heat pump line set, and rigid insulation in a crawlspace are all materials this ant will tunnel in. A gallery in foam is easy to miss and produces almost no debris.

Attached garages and outbuildings, particularly with firewood stacked against a shared wall — which on this species is close to putting the nest in the building deliberately.

Many queens, many nests

Here is the structural fact that decides how much work a job is.

The Pacific Northwest handbook states plainly that a colony of these ants may have many queens and numerous nest sites. That is a different animal from the pavement ant, which runs one queen in one place, and it changes the arithmetic in the way a polygyne species always does.

It means the nest you find is unlikely to be the whole population. It means a treatment that resolves one site can be followed by activity from another six weeks later without anything having gone wrong with the work. And it means the useful question on a first visit is not “where is the nest” but “how many places is this operating from, and which of them are in the building”.

It also means the outdoor half of the job is not optional. A colony network anchored in a hollow tree three hundred yards away, using a wall void as a satellite site, is not resolved by anything done inside the wall.

Food is honeydew and insects rather than wood. Utah State lists other insects, honeydew from aphids, mealybugs and scales, scavenging on dead animals, and a particular attraction to sweets; the Pacific Northwest handbook says the same in shorter form. The practical consequence is the same as it is for carpenter ants: because the ants forage for sugars and protein and share what they collect through the colony, material placed where they are already feeding can be carried inward. An insect that genuinely digested cellulose would never do that.

The aphid connection is a real control point and almost nobody mentions it. A heavy aphid or scale year on the maples, the birches, the roses or the fruit trees keeps a large population close to the building. Managing that infestation is managing the ants.

The trail is better evidence than the frass

With carpenter ants, the heap of coarse shavings below a gallery opening is the find that organizes the whole job. With this species that evidence is thinner, because the ants remove less material, and a household waiting to see a frass pile before taking the problem seriously can wait a long time.

What you get instead is a trail, and it is unusually good evidence because these ants run long, persistent, well-defined routes rather than wandering. The Pacific Northwest handbook’s observation about trails extending several hundred meters to reach structures is what makes them followable: a route that long is established infrastructure, and established infrastructure stays put for weeks.

Three things make it worth working with.

It runs at night. Follow it after dark with a flashlight rather than at midday. The column will be denser, wider and much easier to trace along a fence rail or a foundation edge than it is in the afternoon.

It follows edges. Look along the top of a retaining wall, the seam of a path, a fence line, a cable run, an irrigation line, and every point where vegetation touches the building.

Both ends are informative. One end will finish at a resource — an aphid colony on a maple, a bin, a pet bowl. The other will disappear into the structure or into a cavity in wood, and that is the end that matters.

Leave it alone until somebody has seen it. Spraying a trail on this species removes the single best piece of diagnostic information the property is offering and buys about a day of quiet.

They defend the nest, and it hurts

Utah State’s description is unusually blunt for an extension publication: the species is aggressive, inflicts a painful bite, and sprays secretions onto intruders when disturbed.

That has practical consequences, and they are the reason this section exists rather than being folded into a list.

Anyone pulling trim, opening drywall, lifting insulation or cutting into a stump where this species is nesting should expect a defensive response in numbers and within seconds. It is not a sting and there is no venom of household consequence, but a bite from a large worker combined with a sprayed secretion into the wound is genuinely unpleasant and it is a poor thing to discover while balanced on a ladder.

It also affects arborists and anyone taking down a tree with a cavity in it. If you are having work done on a hollow-butted maple or a standing dead alder and ants have been seen on the trunk, say so to whoever is doing the cutting.

For a household, the sensible version is short: do not open the nest to see what is in it. Take a photograph, collect a few workers on tape from somewhere they are already walking, and leave the wall alone.

Whatcom County, specifically

This is a western species and this county gives it a great deal to work with.

The pattern we see follows the forest edge rather than the town center. The Lake Whatcom shoreline, Sudden Valley, Silver Beach, the wooded lots on the Chuckanut side, the properties backing onto greenbelt in Edgemoor and Alabama Hill, the rural country toward Deming, Acme and the South Fork valley, and the second homes along Birch Bay and Semiahmoo that sit empty for months. What those have in common is standing dead wood, big deciduous trees with cavities, and buildings tucked into the middle of it.

The climate contributes in the way it contributes to everything else here. Without a hard freeze, and with wood that stays damp from October through April, the dead-wood resource this species depends on never gets scarce and never dries out. A cedar stump in this county rots slowly and stays hospitable for decades.

The seasonal shape is close to the carpenter ant’s. Activity builds through spring, peaks in the warm months, runs at night more than by day, and falls away from November. What that means for diagnosis is the same as it means there: large ants moving about indoors in the cold months are living indoors rather than visiting.

Which Liometopum you actually have

Worth saying, because the honest answer is that it is sometimes not settled in the field.

The Pacific Northwest handbook records two species in the region — the red and black one described on this page, and an entirely dark brown species commonly called the pine tree ant. Both nest in wood, both trail long distances, both smell when crushed, and both are managed the same way.

If you have a uniformly dark brown wood-nesting ant with the right smell and the right habits, the identification may be the second species rather than the first. It does not change what needs doing. It does change what you should believe if you go reading, because most of the published photographs are of the banded one.

We would rather record that ambiguity here than pretend a field call is more precise than it is.

Why the verdict on this page is “treat”

Three reasons, and they are the same reasons carpenter ants get the same verdict.

It nests in the structure. Utah State and the Pacific Northwest handbook both describe indoor nesting in wall voids and insulation. That is not an insect passing through a kitchen on the way to somewhere else.

It does damage, slowly. Less than a carpenter ant does, and slower, but tunneling in framing and insulation is still material being removed from an assembly, and it concentrates in exactly the damp members where decay is already running.

It does not resolve on its own. The population is anchored in a resource outdoors that will still be there next year, and nothing about the seasons ends it. Waiting improves no variable.

The qualification we owe you is that a colony working a stump at the back of a lot, with nothing coming into the building, is a different situation and it often needs nothing. Ants on the woodpile are not a structural finding. The verdict on this page is about ants in the structure.

What competent work involves

Identify properly, and under magnification if the specimen is ambiguous. This is the whole reason the page exists. The response for this species overlaps with the carpenter ant response and diverges from the odorous house ant response almost completely.

Look for nests rather than trails. Sounding suspect timber, moisture readings, checking foam and rigid insulation for tunneling, and following trails at night, since that is when they run.

Work the trees. The Pacific Northwest handbook’s advice is to remove dead branches near the home, and the wider version of that is to survey the standing dead wood, the hollow trunks and the stumps within a radius that is far larger than most people expect. Where a nest tree is on land we cannot enter, the honest description of the work changes to keeping a building defended against pressure from a source we do not control, and we will say so rather than imply otherwise.

Cut the bridges. Branches touching the roof or the walls, ivy on siding, firewood stacked against the building.

Correct the water. Wall voids get chosen because they are damp. Gutters, downspouts, flashing, grade and crawlspace ground cover all matter more than anything applied to the ants.

Use non-repellent materials and baits where they fit. The Pacific Northwest handbook records that treatments similar to those used for carpenter ants have been effective against this species, and it is direct elsewhere that over-the-counter sprays are highly repellent to ants and can scatter them through a structure. Contact killers on a visible trail remove the members the colony can most easily spare.

Treat at both ends where the network is known, and expect more than one site.

Come back and check. Activity commonly rises for a period after baiting begins, because recruitment to the material is the mechanism working rather than failing.

Telling it from the other two it gets confused with

Carpenter ants are covered above. The color banding and the smell settle it in under a minute, and the state of the excavation confirms it. The reason to care is that the two do not get the same treatment plan and a carpenter ant program aimed at a Liometopum network with several outdoor nest sites will under-deliver.

Odorous house ants share the smell and nothing else that matters. They are small — around three millimeters, all workers the same size — brown-black throughout with no banding, and they carry a single flattened node hidden beneath the abdomen. They damage nothing structurally. If the ants are uniform, tiny and running a dense two-way column across a counter, that is the answer and this page is not.

Moisture ants are small, yellow to amber, and concentrated in wet decaying timber rather than trailing anywhere. Their thoracic outline carries a notch where both this species and the carpenter ant carry an unbroken curve. Finding them is a statement about water rather than about ants.

What we will not tell you

That it is definitely a carpenter ant. Where the specimen is ambiguous we will say so and get it looked at rather than picking the familiar answer.

That one visit resolves a polygyne network. A colony with many queens and numerous nest sites is a piece of work with follow-up in it, and anybody describing it otherwise is describing an outcome they do not control.

That the tree has to come down. Sometimes removing a hollow stump is the highest-value thing on the job. Sometimes the nest is in a mature maple that is structurally sound, worth keeping, and better managed than felled. That decision belongs to an arborist and to you, not to a pest control company that would rather the ants were gone.

Frequently asked questions

How do I tell this apart from a carpenter ant?

Color, in three bands. Utah State describes a brownish-black head, a yellowish-red thorax and a velvety black abdomen. A western carpenter ant is black throughout with reddish legs, and its body is not banded along its length.

Do they hollow out structural timber the way carpenter ants do?

Less. The Pacific Northwest handbook states that they mine wood less extensively than carpenter ants, and adds that they also infest foam insulation. That makes the damage slower but also much harder to spot, because the frass pile everyone looks for is smaller.

What do they smell like when crushed?

Sharp and unpleasant. The Pacific Northwest handbook describes the odor as similar to that of an odorous house ant, and Utah State notes that a structural infestation produces a foul-smelling odor detectable in the room.

Will they bite if I open the nest?

Very likely. Utah State describes the species as aggressive, inflicting a painful bite and spraying secretions onto intruders when disturbed. That is worth knowing before anybody pulls trim off a wall or takes a chainsaw to a stump.

Where should I be looking for the nest?

Outdoors, the hollows of trees, stumps and logs. Indoors, wall voids and anywhere with high moisture such as a water leak, along with spaces under loose bark and rock, and inside or beneath insulation.

Can this be baited like an odorous house ant?

Partly. The Pacific Northwest handbook says treatments used for carpenter ants have been effective against this species, and the carpenter ant approach is nest-focused rather than bait-only. A colony with many queens and many nest sites will not be resolved by one bait station.

Is the dark ant in my woodpile the same species?

Possibly not. The Pacific Northwest handbook records two Liometopum species in this region, the red-and-black one described here and an entirely dark brown species known as the pine tree ant. They behave similarly and separating them is a job for magnification.

Sources

Rules change. This page is scheduled for review against its sources by September 1, 2027. If you are reading it after that date and something looks out of step with the current rule, the rule is right and we are wrong — please tell us.

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